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The Power of Desire

The latest Ferrari Spring / Summer 2024 apparel collection at Milan Fashion Week revealed a reflection of the unconditional passion and devotion that flows through Maranello and beyond…
Words – Adam Hay-Nicholls

Ferrari showcased its latest Spring/Summer 2024 looks during Milan Fashion Week, with industry VIPs and friends of the brand surrounding a circular runway at the city’s historic Teatro Alcione theatre on the Piazza Vetra. It is a powerful collection and a reflection of the Cavallino’s unconditional passion and devotion. As with Ferrari’s mechanical products, its latest apparel collection strives for excellence and elegance, in design, performance and innovation.

Creative Director Rocco Iannone has overseen a Spring/Summer line that exudes all of Ferrari’s allure through fashion. The brand’s style codes – racing, workwear and tailoring – are filtered, synthesised and amplified to put the body at the centre of the scene, exalting its beauty and sensuality through the essence of form, colour and material. Silhouettes are shortened, lengthened and widened through curved lines, rounded sleeves, anatomical cuts and exaggerated volumes.

The circular runway took pride of place at the Milan Fashion Week at the city's historic Teatro Alcione theatre

Dazzling white opened the show, with the lightness and suppleness of ‘cloud’ Napa leather animated by ‘check 7X7’ quilting, which is a distinctive motif repeated throughout the entire collection. Flesh-tone leather features camouflaged perforations, which upon a closer inspection reveals a subtle Prancing Horse logo. Fine transparent knitwear wraps around the body like a cocoon of gauze, while navy technical wool, cabled knitwear and nylon with powder blue nuances is tactile and ultra-luxurious. Experimental denim explores the most sophisticated washes, its vertical discolorations bringing out a wealth of textures.

Rich, bright amber lighting accompanied the atmospheric transition from day to evening during the show, enriching a new surface of silk woven with metal fibres. Lastly, Ferrari’s signature red appeared with all of its energy and iconic charge, for a high-impact finale dominated by the lustre of patent leather. This was the moment, in the words of Vogue, that Iannone “just throttled it.”

Ferrari’s sustainability mission continues through the constant search for responsible materials and low environmental impact solutions, with ethics at the core of its aesthetics. The wool, organic cotton, denim and leathers seen on the runway are all certified to the highest standards.

Creative Director Rocco Iannone (centre) presented a Spring/Summer Collection that exudes Ferrari allure

This season’s novelties include sculptural jewellery inspired by original engine parts, tech-couture gloves and futuristic sun visors, which instinctively match with the Ferrari Suit and connect with the Scuderia’s racing drivers.

Historically, a Ferrari clutch was operated by the driver’s left foot, but in the Maranello Clutch we find a hand-held accessory of unmistakable beauty, subject to the same dyeing process as Ferrari’s road cars. This clutch sits alongside the many shapes and functions of the Ferrari GT Bags, which come in the classic rigid version with high-frequency print, and in new extra-soft leather and suede forms. These can be matched with pumps in denim and leather with 3D motifs emblematic of Ferrari accessories.

“This collection expresses the power of desire,” said Iannone, “and that is a feeling that everyone experiences when approaching our brand. Desire pushes our boundaries and makes us reach our full potential.”

As Iannone pointed out before the lights went down on the Italian marque’s fifth seasonal show, “power and eroticism are the fuel of Ferrari’s legend,” and with the SS24 collection he’s given the fashion world a blast of both.